Tailored Responses: How multi-dimensional legitimacy management plays out with competing stakeholder demands
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2025-08-19
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en
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Abstract
The fast fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny over its environmental and social impacts.
Companies like Shein continue to experience unprecedented growth despite widespread
criticism. This study explores the legitimacy strategies fast fashion companies use to maintain
stakeholder support while running seemingly contradictory business models. It draws on
Suchman’s (1995) legitimacy theory, with the support of Freeman’s (1984) stakeholder theory.
A qualitative approach is used, based on discourse analysis of 45 documents. These include
corporate sustainability reports, policy papers, media articles, government publications, and
environmental investigations. The findings show a concept that is called ‘avoiding
responsibility’, where companies can maintain legitimacy and keep growing while ignoring
stakeholder expectations, because of the strength of cognitive legitimacy. The study suggests
adding these empirical findings to Suchman’s theory to better fit current market circumstances.
Finally, it highlights how global digital platforms avoid traditional strategies because of vague
supply chains and selective transparency
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Faculteit der Managementwetenschappen