Beyond Surface: Materiality and Craftsmanship in the Clothes of Martin Margiela.
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2017-06-29
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en
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Abstract
New Materialism is a theory that has been increasingly discussed within the field of Fashion Studies. Up until now, much attention was given to the cultural and social meanings conveyed by fashion, whereas the reflection about the prior qualities of the clothes was restricted. Regarding the shift of perspective from the immateriality of signs to the materiality of objects, fields like Material Culture Studies have inspired Fashion Studies to scrutinise the material elements of clothes. Based on all these characteristics much can be said about the designed object as well as about the design and craft processes. The Belgium designer Martin Margiela brought to fashion questions about materiality and craftsmanship by using his creations as a discourse. Thought them Margiela thematizes some relevant aspects of the fashion industry, such as the layers of production in fashion, the materiality of the clothes, the craftsmanship and the function of the traditional fashion shows. This paper aims to explore through an object-based analysis the materiality and the craftsmanship presented by Martin Margiela.
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